Road Trips 14 min read
The Georgian Military Highway: The Most Beautiful Drive in the Caucasus
Published February 2026 Updated February 2026
The Georgian Military Highway is 212 kilometers of the most dramatic scenery you'll ever see from a car window. Starting in Tbilisi and ending at the Russian border (with Kazbegi as the final destination), this road climbs through river gorges, crosses a 2,379-meter mountain pass, passes medieval fortresses, and delivers you to the foot of one of the most iconic mountains in the Caucasus. It's routinely listed among the world's great road trips, and for once, the hype is justified.
## The Basics **Distance**: Tbilisi to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) — 155 km **Driving time**: 3-3.5 hours without stops **Recommended time**: Full day (leave early, stop often, arrive by afternoon) **Road condition**: Fully paved, well-maintained. Some sections narrow and winding. The Jvari Pass can be snowy November–April. **Best time**: May–October for reliable weather. September is arguably perfect — clear skies, autumn colors, harvest season. ## Getting There: Drive, Tour, or Marshrutka? ### Self-drive (recommended) Rent a car in Tbilisi. You don't need a 4x4 for the main highway — any car will do. But if you want to explore side roads (Juta Valley, Truso Valley), a 4WD is essential. **Rental costs**: $25-50/day for a basic sedan, $50-80 for a 4WD. Major agencies at the airport, plus local operators in the city. Your home country license is valid in Georgia for 1 year. **Important**: Georgian driving culture is... assertive. Expect overtaking on blind corners, livestock on the road, and occasional truck convoys moving slowly up the pass. Drive defensively and you'll be fine. ### Organized tour Dozens of operators run day trips from Tbilisi. $30-60 per person in a shared tour (minivan, 8-15 people), $100-200 for a private tour. Most include Ananuri, Gudauri viewpoint, and Kazbegi with a 2-3 hour stop for the Gergeti Church hike. **The downside**: You're on someone else's schedule. You miss the best parts — the unplanned stops, the side valleys, the random roadside cheese seller. ### Marshrutka (minibus) Marshrutkas run regularly from Tbilisi's Didube bus station to Stepantsminda. ~10-12 GEL ($4), 3-4 hours. Functional but you don't get to stop along the way. Good for budget travelers who plan to stay in Kazbegi for a night or two and explore from there. ## The Route: Stop by Stop ### Stop 1: Mtskheta (20 min from Tbilisi) Georgia's ancient capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You'll see the **Jvari Monastery** perched on a hilltop above the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers — one of the most photographed spots in Georgia. The monastery dates to the 6th century and the views are extraordinary. Down in the town, **Svetitskhoveli Cathedral** is the spiritual heart of Georgia — allegedly built over the robe of Christ. It's a massive, beautiful cathedral still in active use. **Time needed**: 1-1.5 hours. Park at Jvari first (drive up), then come down to the town for the cathedral. Grab breakfast at one of the cafés near the cathedral if you left Tbilisi early. ### Stop 2: Ananuri Fortress (65 km from Tbilisi) A stunning medieval fortress complex sitting on the edge of the Zhinvali Reservoir. The turquoise water against the stone walls makes for incredible photos. Two churches inside the fortress walls have beautiful carved facades. **Time needed**: 30-45 minutes. There's a parking lot right at the fortress. Free entry. Small vendors selling churchkhela and snacks nearby. **Pro tip**: If it's summer and hot, you can swim in the reservoir below the fortress. Locals do it all the time. ### Stop 3: Gudauri Viewpoint (120 km from Tbilisi) As you climb toward the Jvari Pass, you'll reach Georgia's premier ski resort town. In summer, it's a kiteboarding and paragliding destination. The **Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument** (a massive Soviet-era mosaic overlooking the Devil's Valley) is the main photo stop. **Time needed**: 15-20 minutes at the monument. The panoramic views of the valley below are staggering — you're at about 2,200 meters elevation. **Skiing note**: If you're visiting December–March, Gudauri has excellent skiing at a fraction of European resort prices. Lift pass: ~50 GEL/day ($18). ### Stop 4: Jvari Pass (2,379m) The highest point on the highway. In summer, you just drive through. In winter, it can be closed by snow — check conditions before setting out (the road police post updates on Facebook, of all places). Just past the summit, the landscape opens up dramatically. You've crossed from the lush, forested south into the stark, high-altitude valleys of the Greater Caucasus. The change is sudden and spectacular. ### Stop 5: Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) — The Destination The small town at the end of the road. It's the base for everything: the Gergeti Church hike, Mount Kazbek treks, and several beautiful side valleys. The town itself is modest — a handful of guesthouses, restaurants, and one main street. **The Gergeti Trinity Church hike**: The reason most people come. A 14th-century church at 2,170 meters, backdropped by the 5,054-meter Mount Kazbek. The hike up takes 1-1.5 hours (steep but straightforward). You can also drive up in a 4WD (30 GEL from town, negotiable) or take a horse. **When to go up**: Early morning for the clearest views of Kazbek. By afternoon, clouds often roll in and obscure the mountain. Sunrise is magical if you're staying overnight. ## Side Trips (With a 4WD) ### Truso Valley Turn off the main highway about 10 km before Stepantsminda. A rough road leads up a dramatic valley with mineral springs, abandoned villages, and a surreal landscape of travertine formations. One of Georgia's hidden gems. Takes 2-3 hours round trip. ### Juta Valley Accessible from a turn-off near the Sno Valley (about 10 km south of Stepantsminda). A beautiful alpine valley at 2,200 meters with a tiny village, guesthouses, and access to serious trekking routes. The hike to Chaukhi massif (dramatic rock pillars) starts here. ## Where to Eat Along the Way **Mtskheta**: Salobie (traditional Georgian, right by the cathedral). Good khinkali and khachapuri. $5-8 per person. **Pasanauri**: This small town on the highway is famous for being the "birthplace of khinkali." Every restaurant serves them. **Khinklis Sakhli** is a reliable choice — order 10 khinkali, a plate of pkhali, and a beer. You'll pay about $5 total. **Stepantsminda**: **Rooms Hotel Kazbegi** has a restaurant with panoramic mountain views and excellent food (but premium prices — $15-25 per person). For budget eats, **Khevi** in town serves solid Georgian food for $5-8. ## Practical Tips **Fuel**: Fill up in Tbilisi. There are gas stations along the way, but they become sparse after Gudauri. There's one in Stepantsminda but don't cut it close. **Cash**: Bring cash. Card acceptance is spotty outside of larger restaurants in Stepantsminda. ATMs exist but aren't guaranteed to work. **Weather**: The pass can be dramatically colder than Tbilisi. Even in summer, bring a jacket. In spring and fall, snow is possible at the pass. In winter, the road can close — check conditions. **Return**: You can drive back the same day (most people do) or stay overnight in Stepantsminda. Rooms Hotel Kazbegi is the luxury option ($150-250/night), but family guesthouses run $20-40/night with dinner and breakfast often included. Staying overnight is strongly recommended — the evening and morning light on Kazbek are worth the extra day. **Don't forget**: The road continues to the Russian border at Larsi. You cannot cross without a Russian visa (which most Western passport holders cannot easily get). The road ends at Stepantsminda for practical purposes. ## One Day vs Two Days **One day**: Leave Tbilisi by 8 AM. Quick stops at Ananuri and Gudauri. Arrive Stepantsminda by noon. Hike to Gergeti Church. Late lunch. Drive back to Tbilisi by evening. Tight but doable. **Two days** (recommended): Same morning, but stay overnight in Stepantsminda. Evening walk with sunset views of Kazbek. Next morning, explore Truso or Juta valley. Drive back to Tbilisi via the same route but stop at places you missed. **Three days**: Now you can add a real trek. The Juta to Roshka trail (2 days, overnight in tents or local huts) is one of Georgia's best multi-day hikes, crossing a 3,300-meter pass with views of the Chaukhi massif. --- *Last updated: February 2026. Road conditions and prices reflect current state. The Georgian Military Highway is well-maintained and suitable for all vehicles on the main route.*